The Wiksten Haori

I have once again been lured into the idea of making my own clothes. This time was much better than my disastrous rayon tank top. This time I chose a pattern that I have seen other quilters successfully execute, and fabric I know how to use.

The Wiksten Haori is a boxy Japanese style jacket. I’ve seen it popping up on Instagram, and I really liked it. When I saw Carolyn Friedlander’s version, I had to try it. Luckily, the pattern is actually really easy to follow.

I tried on a version Ivete (at Gotham Quilts) made in a large size, and decided I would be happier with an XL version. I also decided to make the longest of the three options. I have always liked dusters and long cardigans.

I had intended to make it several months ago. I picked up some really cool fabric from Gotham Quilts. The outer layer is this really soft loose woven Indigo Boro cotton from Moda. (Our new aprons are the same fabric, and I can’t get enough of it.) For the lining I chose Essex Linen in Pickle.

Then I took the fabric home, Mom washed it for me, and it sat folded up nicely until the night before vacation. I was in my normal departure panic, and decided at 10 PM to cut out the pattern pieces, and bring the project along with me. (I always bring sewing on vacation. Not always a machine, but if there is room in the car, my EverSewn Sparrow comes with me.)

Here is my sewing studio away from home. I’ve occupied the dining room table at the lake house. This year I’m right next to the living room. It’s a good thing my Sparrow is nice and quiet – I can stitch happily while everyone is watching movies in the evening.

Jacket construction took longer than I expected, but mostly because I’m not familiar with garment construction. I made sure to read the instructions multiple times. I pinned, stitched, and pressed very carefully. The jacket comes together so awkwardly. At several points I was certain I had screwed it up, but It came together just like the pattern said it would.

I did change it up a bit. I made an extra set of pockets in the lining, so it is reversible. If I’m worried about getting lost in a crowd, I can turn it inside out and be seen from outer space. I also made the collar from two colors, so it contrasts with the body of the jacket and with the lining. I did 4 rows of stitches on the collar – I felt like it needed a little bit more detail once it was finished.

I’m really proud of how it came out. It feels like I was working on a really intense puzzle for the last two days. It is cozy and warm, and much heavier than I expected. Of course, the fabric was really heavy when folded – I don’t know why I was surprised the finished jacket was heavy.

It does feel pretty huge. I think the next version I make I might do a large size and see how I like it. There are tons of finished haoris on Instagram, under #wikstenhaori. There are so many great ideas. I want to make an unlined one, and one out of a vintage quilt, and one with patchwork. My son is interested, too, which is nice. He might get a denim one, if I can find a suitably awesome lining.

I will be on the lookout for some fancy pearl cotton when I get back to work next week. I think a little bit of boro style stitching here and there would be a perfect accent.

So, tah dah! It is day two of our vacation, and I have a special jacket that it is way too hot to wear.